Lilly's is truly a veteran of the Louisville dining scene: the restaurant made its debut at 1147 Bardstown Road on February 3, 1988. Our La Peche Catering operation, still going strong, had opened at the same location even earlier: on October 13, 1979.

Over the past twenty years, the "upscale" dining scene here has changed and grown, amazingly. When we founded Lilly's, there were not many fine dining locations in the Louisville area.

It seems that as the 1990's ticked by, things really got rolling. The sophistication of new diners -- well-traveled, educated, readers of the food press -- brought with it the demand for upscale restaurants. Louisville now has a wide array of great restaurants, international cuisines, and well-qualified chefs.

Louisville has echoed the national scene by spotlighting chefs as "celebrities." In the 80's, this was fairly unusual. Although I was the first chef from here to be invited to cook for New York's James Beard Foundation (in 1993), there have now been nearly 10 or so appearances there by Louisville chefs. It still surprises me to greet people from all over the country who say, "Oh, I saw you on the Food Network the other day!"

Keeping The Creative Urge Strong

During my relatively long career as a chef and restaurateur in Louisville, there have been many challenges, and many high points as well. For Lilly's, the big challenge is keeping a good team together, creatively on point, and constantly adapting to change, while keeping rising food and labor costs in line.

Personally, the challenge for me is keeping the creative urge strong, and constantly maintaining my motivation.

The high points in the life span of Lilly's have included years of thank-you's and satisfied customers, our pioneering support of local agriculture and farmers, creating memorable menus, inviting great American chefs to cook at Lilly's, and the satisfaction of being able to give back to the community through philanthropic deeds. It's sometimes amazing to me that I've been in this business so long, and I'm proud to say that I'm still happily married (31 years) and have two great kids.

Among the joys of this business, I especially appreciate the freedom to create (a chef-owner's prerogative), and the wonderful, solitary joy of creativity -- frequently during long walks with my dog Todi. There is also a simple satisfaction in what we do, in being part of people's lives and sharing special moments with them through the years.

There is also satisfaction in working in this sector of the local economy: sharing ideas and experiences with other Louisville chefs, doing our part for Louisville's cultural tourism, finding new and unique local suppliers (mainly farmers) constantly, and supporting charitable causes in many ways.

A Changing Industry

The local fine dining scene has certainly changed during these years. Facing ever-increasing competition, especially with chain and out-of-town restaurants coming to Louisville, I stand with other local chefs and owners in being extremely proud of the "Louisville Originals" restaurant group, of which Lilly's is a part. I hear from people who will only patronize restaurants in this group, and this support is influencing change.

There have been further changes in our local restaurants' creative pricing and planning; at Lilly's for instance, the innovations of by-the-glass wines, our "Kentucky tapas" menu, and our offering both large and small desserts, special wine dinners, and prix fixe menus.

There is also more awareness of health-consciousness in eating, especially in vegetarian options and farmer-driven fresh food menu items. Finally, and this is especially true at Lilly's, there has been an easing of dress codes and formality in general.

We now, for instance, see Lilly's as a neighborhood Kentucky bistro, offering our creative cuisine in a warm and welcoming atmosphere. "Come as you're comfortable" is our mantra, even as we've lightened up and brightened up the place.

Lilly's has further reflected the changes in the local dining scene by putting more sandwiches on the lunch menu as a nod to the quick pace of life, and by shortening and concentrating our wine list so it won't be so intimidating. We have also started al fresco dining. We respond to our customers' wishes.

If you're interested in knowing more, we'd welcome a visit from you at www.lillyslapeche.com.

Lilly's Still Evolving

This re-thinking of Lilly's ambience, while continuing our celebrated food tradition, is prime among our plans for the future of our operation. We are also planning more special evening events: food-driven, wine-driven, and art-driven. We are adding more vegetarian fare, while continuing our emphasis on fresh food and seasonal menus.

Added to the physical changes within the restaurant, my husband and I plan to continue our international travels, which always lead to creative bursts of new ideas, and many menu innovations. We plan to increase the size of Lilly's garden in the country, as well.

Personally, I plan to spend more time in the country at my parents' farm. And, lurking in the back of my mind is a little vow to stop dreaming about writing my own cookbook, and actually start working on it. Time will tell.